Trip to Sardinia

In May of 2026, my wife and I visited the island of Sardinia. There we met with my brother and his wife, who arrived from Frankfurt. The trip lasted for 10 days and covered Sardinia's northern coast. The planning was assisted by an AI engine that received guidance to suggest 'A vacation itinerary with 3 stops and include daily sightseeing trips up to 100 km and 5-6 easy to moderate hikes for 60-70-year-olds.' In practice, we made a few changes but generally followed the plan, considering that hotels were already booked.

This isn't just my typical fiction tale; it's a detailed trip report designed to inspire and assist others in planning their vacation to Sardinia. Get ready for firsthand insights and tips that can make your travel plans a reality!

Sardinia is an Italian island in the Mediterranean Sea, and it is not a small one: roughly 300 km in length and 150 km wide. Travel from the northern town of Olbia to the regional capital Cagliari in the south on a good highway takes 3 hours by car or 4 hours by train. Thus, we decided to limit ourselves to the north coast this time.

There are 3 major airports: Cagliari, Olbia, and Alghero; Olbia is the most convenient for the northern part.

Sardinia is famous for its beautiful beaches with soft white sand, but in May, the water temperature is about 17-20 °C. Nevertheless, we swam almost every day. It gets warmer later, but other people also know about that, and it becomes more crowded in summer. We did not have any problems with parking; it is cheap, and in many areas it is free. Roads are good but curvy, mostly 2-way, with few highways, no tolls.

The island does not look very industrialized, and agricultural activity is not too visible: sheep here and there, cows, hay rolls. The population is about 1.5 million. Local food includes cheese and pasta, but it is possible that flour is imported. Fish is very good, but no sardines – the island is named after ancient indigenous people called Sards, eventually of the Greek or Phoenician origin (North) and Carthaginians (south). In the 3^rd BC, the island was conquered by the Romans.

In the Middle Ages, the island was ruled by the republics of Pisa and Genoa, then in the 14^th century, it was conquered by the Aragonese Kingdom of Spain (Barcelona). In the Alghero area, some people still speak the Catalan dialect (I did not check it). In the 1710s, Sardinia, as a part of the Kingdom of Sardinia, was ceded to the Austrian Empire. From here, the history becomes very complicated. After Napoleon, the Kingdom of Sardinia, which also included all modern northern Italy, was made independent again (from Austria). After gaining independence, the Sardinians annexed the central Italian provinces, Venetia, Sicily, and after that, renamed all this to the Kingdom of Italy in 1861. Here, the important role Garibaldi played is a separate story.

In the 1930s, Mussolini established 3 agricultural communities in Sardinia, one of which was Fertilia, which we visited on the way to Alghero.

Herein is our detailed itinerary with comments and historical and geographical inserts.

Italian dictionary

Cala = cove

Capo = cape or head (peninsula)

Spiaggia = swimming beach

Punta = tip

Grotta = cave

Faro = lighthouse

Torre = Tower

Montagna = mount

Parcheggio = parking

Chiesa = church

May 14–17 — San Teodoro

5/13 Night flight Boston – Munich

5/14 Arrival

Arrived at Olbia at 16:30. Took a rental car (Seat Arona) at Avis. Met Vitia and Rita at 17:30 on the plane from FRA.Arrived at Villa Alba. Short drive to Eurospin supermarket for groceries. Back to the villa – no running water in the house. Sent a note to the host. Dinner at hotel L'Esagono (Hexagon) bar.

5/15 San Teodoro

Originally, the San Teodoro location was chosen for its proximity to the National Park del Gennargentu (south). We planned hikes to Cala Goloritze (Baunei) and Cala Gonone (see Alltrails), but found them too difficult and changed our plans.

Morning hike to Spiaggia La Cinta via San Teodoro (see Alltrails)— 3.9 miles, easy, about 1–1.5 hours. Walk in the north direction, easy. Water 17 °C.

Returned to the villa at 13:10 - still no water! Booked a nearby hotel, L'Esagono, 2 nights, 2 rooms for 280e with breakfast (paid by the Alba's host ). Very good hotel, on the beach, with a swimming pool (cold water). Dinner in San Teodoro in "Da Nardino" restaurant (ok)

5/16: La Maddalena islands day trip.

Very strong winds all day.

Drove to Palau for about 1 hr, Delcomar ferry to La Maddalena with the car. The crossing is about 20 minutes.

Caprera Island by causeway: visiting Garibaldi's house-museum.

 Here, Garibaldi bought some land and built a house in 1856. In 1871, he settled there with his last wife and numerous children and lived the life of a farmer. He suffered from arthritis, and the museum is filled with devices that he used to continue being active. He was visited there by many people from all over the world seeking his opinion on various issues (like Leo Tolstoi in Jasnaja Poliana). The house itself is very modest. There is his grave with a monument. Died 1882. Absolutely incredible biography - just one example: in 1861, he was invited by Lincoln to help the North in the Civil War. Garibaldi agreed, but only on the condition that he would be Commander-in-Chief of all troops and that slaves would be freed immediately. Lincoln refused.

Short hike on Caprera from museum: Cala Andreani – Punta Rossa, 2.0 miles, easy on Alltrails. Did not finish – the path became too rocky, total 2 hrs.

May 17–21 — Villa Laura, Porto Conte / Alghero coast

 

5/17 San Teodoro to Alghero:

Alghero. Church of St. Michael

Driving from San Teodoro to Alghero, about 150 km, 3 hours. On the way, stopped at the Necropolis of Anghelu Ruju – an ancient Neolithic cemetery (not too interesting). Arrived at Villa Laura earlier at 1 pm – no host. Drive 10 km to Fertilia (Mussolini's town) for lunch in a family-owned restaurant Acquario – ok. At 3:20 pm, the property manager arrived and opened the house. Large villa 50 m from the beach, former restaurant, huge terrace (about 1000 e for 4 nights), very secluded, nice swimming in the sea, water 18C.

Drive to Alghero (17km), bought food in Coop supermarket, walked around Alghero old city for 1.5 hrs. Return to the villa at 8:40 pm, dinner is homemade.

5/18: Nature outing in Porto Conte / Capo Caccia.

Grotta di Nettuno

 Morning drive about 7 km to Capo Caccia peninsula. Short hike to Torre de Bol tower. Descended 657 steps to Grotto di Neptuno (cave, 18e). Amazing cave, a guided tour about 45 min. Ascending 657 steps in about 20 min. The combined length of the cave system is estimated to be around 4 km, but only approximately 300 m are accessible to the public. Inside are passages of lit stalactite and stalagmite formations, and a 120-metre long saltwater lake, which is at sea level. There are boat trips to this cave from Alghero when the weather permits, no winds.

There is also the Green Grotto cave nearby (10e, did not go there)

Returned to Villa Laura at 2 pm, swimming. At 6:30 pm, drive 30 km to Sassari, parking at Piazza d'Italia. Walking around the old city 1 hr: main street Corso Vittorio Emanuel,

Fontana di Rosello

Cathedral of Saint Nicola of Bari, Fontana di Rosello, 12^th century (!). Dinner at restaurant Liberty – very good (duck breast, octopus, tried Sardinian Sebada for dessert - fried pastry disc filled with fresh, slightly sour cow's milk cheese and flavored with lemon and drenched in honey).

5/19: Hiking day in Porto Conte

Tried to do an Alltrails hike: Pegna Tower via Dragunara Cave, 3.9 miles, moderate. But stopped at the Regional Natural Park de Porto Conte, and they said that most of that trail is closed. Instead of that, we parked at Cala Dragunara beach (boat landing place) and walked up to the cave Grotta delle Brocche Rotte, about 2.5 miles, moderate, great views of the sea.

Evening in Alghero old town, park at piazza Sulis, near Torre l'Espeiro Reial - Torre de Sulis, walk about 2 hrs. Most impressive Cathedrale de Santa Maria Immacolata, Church of San Michael (mosaic cupola!), Church of Misericordia.

Dinner at the restaurant Bella Napoli (medium food). Back at Villa Laura at 10 pm.

5/20: Travel to Bosa

Drive to Alghero, stop at the COOP for food, and continue driving south along the shore for 1 hr  (40 km) to Bosa town. 2-3 scenic stops on the way. Wandered for 30 min in the Bosa port – not interesting. Drive to Cane Malu beach (must see!) and walk about 1 km. Very interesting place of volcanic origin - white trachyte and welded tuff (pyroclastic rock, to be clear), looks surreal as a Moon white landscape, natural sea pool, and multiple small stone basins suitable for entering. The water is 19 °C in the sea, so you need rubber shoes for swimming.

Short drive to the Old City – very scenic. Did not visit Bosa Malaspina castle (why?) The castle is built of the same material as Cane Malu tuff. The powerful, noble Tuscan family erected the fortress, the Malaspina dello Spino Secco, in the 13th century.

Bosa and Malaspina castle

According to local lore, the Marquis Malaspina was so blindingly jealous of his beautiful young wife that he could not bear the thought of other citizens looking at her. He allegedly ordered a secret underground tunnel to be dug from the castle directly to the town cathedral below so she could attend mass in absolute isolation. At some point, he suspected a betrayal and cut off his wife's fingers in a fit of rage, wrapping them in a handkerchief that he carried everywhere.

Possibly not true, since the tunnel was never found. Lunch in Il Pirato restaurant on the riverbank – good (lamb ragu). Drive back to Villa Laura, 1.5 hr, sunset swimming in the sea.

May 21–24 — AHR Residence, Porto Pollo

5/21 Alghero to Porto Pollo

Left Villa Laura at 10 am. Drive to Olbia 3hr. Short walk to Olbia's promenade, lunch in La Piazetta restaurant (ok). 4 pm - Victor and Rita dropped off at Olbia airport – return flight to FRA.

Arrived at Porto Pollo – the northern tip of Sardinia. Stayed in AHR Residence – nice condo—7 min walk from the beach, great swimming area, almost no people. There is a famous windsurfing resort, and activities start in June—dinner at home – local pasta #6.

The mainland is connected to a small, 18-hectare peninsula called Isola dei Gabbiani (Island of the Seagulls) by a razor-thin, sandy isthmus. We planned a hike there, but did not do it.

5/22: Bonifacio day trip

8:45 am Drive from Porto Pollo to Santa Teresa di Gallura port area. Parked the car at Parcheggio Piazza Bruno Modesto (free), 10 min walk to the port.

Bonifacio town, Corsica

The Bonifacio–Santa Teresa route is active from January 16 to October 31, 2026, and the crossing is about 50–60 minutes depending on operator and conditions, costing about 35e pp. Took ferry 10:20 to Bonifacio (Corsica, FR). Old town Bonifacio stands on the rock on a small peninsula, built about the 9th-10th centuries, and is very scenic. After the ferry, we tried to take a local bus called 'Le petit train de Bonifacio' to the Upper Town (6e pp), but all rides were reserved for tourist groups, and we ascended by foot via Mnt Rastello street -  steep but not extremely difficult and in 15 min entered the gates of the Upper town. Walked there for about 1 hr, the most important sites are the Church of St Marie Majeure and Bastion l'Etendard. Came to the entry point to the famous Roi d'Aragon Stairs that descend to the sea level on the Sardinia side (south) – 187 steps, cost 5e pp, but decided not to go and rather landed in the nearby restaurant U Castille (try Jarret d'Agnieu - very good!).

Left the U town via the same gate and walked to the Reserve Naturelle – nothing special, but great view of the Bonifacio city walls. Descended to the port and took the 15:30 ferry back to Sardinia.

5/23 Capo Testa and Castelsardo

Author in Capo Testa

10 am drive 20 km to Capo Testa peninsula near Santa Teresa center (parking is limited, but we managed). Walk around Faro (beacon) -very picturesque rocks smoothed by the wind into strange shapes. Planned to go Capo Testa - Cala Spinosa – Cala Francese (Alltrails) loop hike 2.6 miles easy around the peninsula (includes visiting the Moon Valley), but found the route not too easy and landed at beach Cala Francese – nice cove between weathered rocks (wind, rain, and abrasive sea spray), swam there for an hour (few people, water 20C). Returned to the car and decided to see the Castelsardo town about 70 km west along the coast.

A beautiful town standing on the cliff. Parked at via Piave near the restaurant Spagheterrria Aragona and entered the town via La Maddalena street. Visited the local handicraft museum Sulle Origine Genovese near the landmark church of Saint Mary of Grace (tall belltower) and walked on the walls of the castle. Old town is small, and 1 hr is enough to see. Had coffee and drove back to Porto Pollo (about 1.5 hr, good but curvy roads). Last swim at the Porto Pollo surfing beach.

5/24: Olbia final day

10 am drive to Olbia. On the way, we visited Porto Cervo – the most luxurious town in Sardinia, where billionaires gather in July-August to show their yachts. Pretty empty in May – just a few modest boats (below $50 mil). Walked on the left side of the marina for about 1 hr between the luxury villas hidden behind natural fences of blossoming oleanders. No beach access. Drive about 10 min to the Piccolo Revero beach (good, free) and swim there.

Arrived at Olbia, hotel Tramas (110e, 3* good), dropped our stuff and went to the airport to return the rental car. From the a/p bus #10 goes to the Old city (15 min, 1.5e), a 10-minute walk from the hotel. Walked around Olbia looking for the Roman aqueduct – nothing left. In the hotel, I figured out that I had left my Hoka sneakers in the car. We took bus 10 to and back and found the car and shoes. Dinner at La Lanterna restaurant – very good.

5/25: Return to Boston, 6:30 am taxi to a/p. Flight to Zurich, 2.5 hr stopover, then Zurich to Boston, arrived 4 pm local.