A brief description of our 2-week travel around Southern Italy. Recommended for those who has already seen the Northern. Very relaxing with some sightseeing and short hikes. See few recommendations at the end.
6 Sep. Flight Boston to Naples via Dublin by Air Lingus 6 +3 hours
7 sep. Praiano day 1.
Took a rental car in Thrifty/Hertz Opel Grandland hybrid and drove to Praiano on the Amalfi coast, about 2 hrs. On the way stopped in Castellomare at the supermarket to buy some food. The last 30 km from Salerno after a few tunnels the road is very narrow and there is heavy traffic, especially in Positano. Arrived at Praiano about 3 pm: Anna - property manager met us, helped to park in the garage, and helped to move luggage through narrow passages downhill about 30m below the road, close to Saint Gennaro church ca.1585.
Our house is named Villa l'Adelaide: 2 bedrooms, family room, kitchen, and a long balcony with a fantastic view of the sea, neighboring Positano is 5 km and part of Capri with Faragliano rocks in about 30 km west. We always ate on this balcony. Around 6 pm we went with Olja to the beach Gavitela about 10 min down, elevation about 80 m, 358 steps. Swimming is great, spotless water, t=25C, few people. There's also a paid swimming area for 50e per day but not worth it. The free beach is good, with convenient entry to the water, and shower, can rent a kayak. The climb back took only 20 min. At 9 pm my brother Vitia and Rita by taxi from Napoli just in time for dinner.
8 sep. Praiano day 2.
We all four went to the beach in the morning. After lunch, we decided to go to Positano by bus. After waiting for 45 min Vitia and Rita gave up and returned home. No bus for another 15 min and we took a taxi (50e) and shared with another couple from New Zealand in 15 min he dropped us close to the Positano port.
It was almost 5 pm and we bought ferry tickets to Amalfi. The trip was 20 min fast. We walked around the city center, near Duomo, Amalfi is a very crowded place. Took the last ferry back to Positano at 7:05. Climbed up to the bus stop Strada. Finally, a SITA bus arrived and in 15 min we were in Praiano (ticket 1.40). Went for dinner at the Gennaro restaurant - very good and cheap (octopus salad, sea bass, 70e with vine)
9 sep. Praiano day 3.
Booked tickets to the Capri boat trip on 11 Sep (4 x $130) in the local company called Cassiopeia based in Positano.
Now Victor and Rita decided to take a trip to Positano - Amalfi where we spent a few hours on the Gavitela beach. After lunch at about 5 pm decided to take a local Praiano bus to see another local beach, Marina del Praia - about 1.2 km in the Amalfi direction. The bus climbed extremely high to the top of the village and after that descended to Praia, but at that time Vitia called and said that they just came back. We didn't get to del Praia but returned on the same bus to the starting point. Tall together went to dinner in El Pino restaurant - good food but not superb, expensive.
10 sep Sun. Praiano day 4.
Planned to go on the “Path of God's” hike but cannot get to the starting point in Bomerano (Agerola): a big stone fell on the road between Praiano and Amalfi before the turn to Agerola. Most of the day was spent on the beach. Dinner on the balcony of l'Adelaide.
11 sep. Praiano day 5 - Capri.
At 8:15 a small inflatable boat picked us up at the Gavitela beach and delivered us to Positano pier. There we embarked on a bigger boat – holding a total of 12 tourists and captain Francesco. The journey to Capri took about 1 hour. After that our boat practically encircled the island: passed Faragliano rocks and Grotte Azzurro (Blue Cave) where I and Olya was in 1997, but this time it was too busy and we didn't get inside.
Landed in Marina Piccolo harbor, and took a taxi to Villa San Michell in Anacapri town. Visited the museum
(interesting and great views), of famous writer Axel Munthe: at first, he was a doctor and somehow made a lot of money. After that took a cable car and in 15 min, we were at the top of the mountain Solara - not very much to do there but the views are breathtaking and worth it. Returned by taxi 30e to the port where the boat “Perseus” and Francesco were waiting for us. On the way back stopped for half an hour to swim in the sea and at 17 were in Positano. A small boat took us to Praiano. Dinner on the terrace.
12 Sep. Paestum
Morning drive Praiano to Villamare. Since the direct road via Amalfi to Salerno was closed, we took a detour via Castellomare to Salerno and arrived at Paestum - a famous ancient Greek town in 6 BC.
Ticket 13e. In the open area, there are 3 very well-preserved Greek temples (better than the Temple Valley in Agrigento Sicily) dedicated to Hera and Neptune. Walked for about an hour, impressive, and very hot. After that visited the archeology museum - not exciting, few frescos: most notably "A Boy Jumps into the Sea".
About 1 hour drive south to Villamare, a good road. Here we checked in Villa Comics B&B, 50 m from the beach, pebbles but it was easy to enter the water at 24C, absolutely still. Drove Vitya and Rita to their next stop in Manatea - 20 km south via mountains along the beach. The road is pretty curved, better not to drive in the dark. In Manatea we split up with my brother and returned to Villamare. Swimming and at about 8 pm driving to Sapri (3 km) for dinner. Occasionally we stepped into the great restaurant Taberna do Mar – and ordered their favorite "Frittata misto" small 10-12 fish (15 cm each) grilled in oil; portions are about 3x Bostonians. Moderate price 100e incl white vine. Btw, Rosso is red vine and Roseto is rose.
13 Sep. Villamare day 2: Bussento gorge.
After swimming and breakfast drive to the mountain village Morigerati - about 25 km serpentine but nothing dangerous. Left the car at the central square near some medical facility and vent to the information (see signs), could park there also. Paid 6e, got a primitive scheme map, and went downwards along a stony path with steps about 800 m, elevation 120m into the Bussento gorge.
Nice canyon and a big cave, very worth visiting. There's also an 18th-century mill, that can swim in the river nearby but the water is cold. Climbed up in 30 min. There's a small cog rail built along the path but unfortunately broken. Using it could be exciting and ease the ascension. In the village had a small lunch in IL Castello restaurant - not bad and very cheap (26e with local wine). Dinner in Sapri in the same Taberna do Mar (!)
14 sep. Villamare day 3. Cape Palinuro
After sea swimming and breakfast decided to go to Palinuro - a small town north 35 km, good road. Parked near the port (10 e full day) and went about 200m to Alessandro’s boat company stand, booked a 2-hour trip to Grotto Azzurro and further along the coast. Small boat: captain and 7 passengers. Very impressive grotto, not worse than Capri's famous grotto. Stopped for 30 min to swim near a secluded beach “Bon Dormir” and sailed back. Good trip - recommended (20e per person). Had a few drinks in the local bar and drove back to Villamare. This time went to Lucifero in Sapri. Mediocre restaurant, with slow service, The fish was okay, but relatively expensive.
15 Sep. Drive to Matera
Last morning swimming, breakfast, and left Villamare. Being asked by our host Gianfranco wrote him a great review on Booking.com. Villa Comics is a great place for swimming and relaxing, absolutely no steps! Almost a private beach, parking in the back. Technically can drive to the famous park National Cilento about 50-60 km. There is a big supermarket in 500 m. www.villacomics.com
Drive 3 hours to Matera via Digo de Monte Catugno (dam and reservoir) and Policoro (Taranto bay) - a relaxing road. Arrived in town Matera - UNESCO site, famous for its caves where people lived since the neolithic period 7000 BC, the caves are not natural but man-made in a soft sandstone. Parked at Parcheggo Nickoletti, from there, a shuttle delivered us to our Hotel Sextantio in the old town called Sassi (caves). The hotel is a project of preserving and remodeling old caves into tourist accommodations, some rooms are actual caves but we lived in the so-called castle - rooms built above the caves. Everything is in minimalist style: old pieces of furniture but a modern bathroom in a separate room of about 40 sqm in size. See www.sextantio.it
We booked a private 2-hour tour in the hotel (130e) and left at 4:30 with our guide Alessio - very good (recommended). First, we visited the cave used as a Christian Orthodox church (?) and after that slowly climbed to the top of Veneto Square, then walked to Duomo. Great sunset views and photos. A lot of talking about Carlo Levi’s role in attracting public opinion to a dare situation in Matera before WWII by his book 1945 where he wrote about the modern troglodytes in Italy living in caves with animals in extreme poverty. Big reconstruction of Matera started in 1952 and ended in 1971 when most cavemen were resettled to modern housing, their caves appropriated (for free) by the government and later sold to rich developers. There we split up with Alessio and had dinner in a small restaurant near Veneto square: tried orecchiani pasta - not very impressive but ok. From Duomo used a shortcut to our hotel - 10 min downwards, maybe 150 steps.
Celebrated Rosh a Shana in the hotel with apples and honey.
16 sep. Matera day 2.
In the morning we had breakfast in the cave: very good, lot of fruits and pastries, great coffee as everywhere in Italy. Btw, it was 106 steps from our room to the reception/dining.
Started our nonguided tour with a gentle ascend to St. Augustine church that we saw before to the left from our window. From there up to Veneto Square. Descended to the ancient stone cave water reservoir - not in use anymore. From there went to the Ricato Archeology Museum - mostly Greek vases and artifacts as usual (not necessary to visit). After that, we went to another landmark Caveoso – a big rock reminding Golgofa rock. There is a great view from the rock of the valley and a little stream at the bottom of it. There is also a path that starts from Caveoso to cross the river by a hanging bridge and explore the uninhabited caves on the other bank. We didn't go but rather took a nap in the hotel.
Around 5:30 pm another walk to the top and descent via Fiorentina, suddenly started rather strong rain and we went to the restaurant (waited until 7:30) - name Pietra Viva - very good, recommended, eggplants (4*), tartaglioni with porcini and truffles (5*), good Roseto vine (90e).
Sep 17. Farewell to Matera ( a la Valentin Rasputin).
After the cave breakfast, a shuttle bus takes us to the car park. We set GPS to town Lecce located in the “heel of Italy” (Apulia province) famous for its baroque churches and other buildings. Distance 200 km via Brindisi, easy flat road, mostly four lines. Arrived in Lecce at about 1 pm. Made self-guided tour visiting major churches, Roman amphitheater, and theater. The difference is that “amfi” has a full circle of seats and “theater “- is only a semicircle. Both objects are in reconstruction, but the churches, especially San Matteo, are beautiful and impressive.
Annoying is a lot of graffiti. Ate a panini with beer and after 2.5 hours embarked on our next destination -Trani, another 200 km north along the Adriatic coast of the Apennine peninsula by highway. Near Fasano turn left to Locorotondo to see the famous trullies - local houses with conical stone roofs.
We didn't have a good target location, thus, somewhere on route 172 took a left turn 10 km before Locorotondo and stopped in a small village built with these trullies, maybe two
dozen, to take enough good photo pictures. It was getting late, so we decided to skip Locorotondo and return to the highway.
About 7:30 were in Trani. All attempts to get to our hotel “Dimare Marinare” located in the port area failed - absolutely no parking spots and the port area is closed for some celebration? Circulated for 30-40 minutes and finally parked illegally at the street crossing, took our suitcases, and rolled them to the hotel through the thick crowd, about 500 m. Even finding the hotel was next to impossible but for some reason, our hostess Georgia noticed Olga and asked if she was related to Dmitry.
The hotel is nice with a great view of the harbor filled with motorboats and yachts. After reparking our car we bought pizza and consumed it with vino Bianco on the balcony philosophically watching the human eddies below. See https://dimoremarinare.com/it/
Sep 18. Trani full day.
Breakfast on the hotel roof, modest as everywhere maybe except Matera.
In the morning made about 2 2-hour walk to Duomo, old city, and then to the left arm of the mall. Few people were swimming in between the bare mall rocks, very hot. After a short break went to the right side of the harbor to the small park from where entered private beach Belle Venetia (30e for two). Nice place, swam a lot, cold beer, and snacks. Looking from the beach to the right in 2 km can see the impressive building " Madonna di Colonno" - probably worth visiting.
Came back to the hotel, Olja worked for 2-3 hours, and after that went for dinner in the harbor.
Sep 19. Trani to Naples
Left at 10:30, easy drive mostly highways for 200 km. Near Naples decided to visit Vesuvio and turned to the Vesuvio National Park. Road climbing about 1000 m vertically has not changed since 1997. The best option is to start from the A3 highway in a such way that you go by Vesuvio Street (like tourist busses go). When Vesuvio Street ends there's only one way up for another 5 km. There is a car park along the narrow road (maybe 150 spots) - park as soon as possible and go to the shuttle bus that takes you to the entry point - about 2 km - can walk. Most important is that you need to buy tickets in advance through the special website - no way to buy them on the spot, unless you are extremely lucky and can catch the Internet there. We tried for 2-3 hours and gave up. All ticketing system is a pure Italian mockery and many people like we tried to buy online. Finally, we took the shuttle back to the car and descended to Naples via Vesuvio Street.
Our hotel Chiaia [ki’aja] di Charme is located in a good area in the Chiaia district, not far from Castle Nuovo and Piazza de Plebiscito. Parked on a parallel street Nardones for 40e/24 h and rolled our bags about 200 m to the hotel located on the 2nd floor of a 6-store house. Later the concierge explained that it was a former bordello. The room was good for a 3* hotel, and the breakfast was light and healthy. It was about 5 pm and we decided to walk to the city center north-east, somewhere at the street cafe had a beer and Aperol. Took a taxi and in 10 min we were in Piazza dei Martini. Stopped at the first restaurant "Rossopomodoro"- not recommended - the pasta was oversalted and needed to be replaced. Walked 10 min via Chiaia to our hotel.
Sep 20 wed. Naples
As planned, we met Yura and Bella Alukhanov at the central railway station: they stayed near Sorrento and took a local train or tram to Naples. Walked together through the city center to the famous archeology museum but it was closed for no reason on Wed (normally closed on Tuesdays) - no luck! Went to the funicular to the top of the hill where the castle of St Uhlm stands. Impressive castle but we decided not to go in (tired) and stopped for lunch in a small restaurant, "Lo cantina" - recommended, cheap and good food.
Took another funicular (there are 3 total) and descended to the station Augustine on Toledo Street. Split up with Yura and Bella at the Toledo Metro station and walked to the hotel. Decided to return our rental car a day earlier and drove to the airport - 10 km took about 1 hour, a crazy drive, not for a beginner driver. Here we closed our driving loop - 1300 km.
Took a taxi to the hotel, dropped some stuff there, and went to the beach promenade again via Piazza dei Martiri (15 min), walked along the sea towards Castello d'Ovo and stopped for a light dinner (only antipasti and bottle of Rosato) at Antonio & Antonio restaurant - very good, recommended.
21 Sep – the last day
All night was heavy rain and thunderstorms. Packed our stuff, checked out, and took a taxi to the airport (30e). Traffic was absolutely crazy and we thought that would never get there but our driver managed to do it in 45 min! All the road I was thinking how smart it was to return our car the day before.
Flight Naples – Dublin - Boston, was surprisingly on time. Amen!
Few advises
Do not go to Amalfi coast if you don't like to climb stairs. The only easy way to travel around is by sea ferries/boats. Check where they stop and plan accordingly. There was no ferry stop in Praiano. Buses are unreliable. Driving by car is not a fun and parking is next to impossible.
You need to buy tickets to Vesuvio in advance on the web or buy a guided bus tour. You cannot get tickets at the top.
Our trip from Matera to Lecce and then to Trani was about 400 km (roads are good). Consider stay not in Trani but somewhere else for better access to Lecce and Locorotondo (trullies), for example stay in Ostuni.
1.5 days in Matera is enough but it is a must to visit. Guide Alessio Leardi www.materaexperience.com
Driving in Naples is crazy, even in the taxi. Use train or tram or metro of funiculaires as much as possible.
There is a great Parco Nazionale dell Alta Murgia 20 km south of Trani. Check it out.
Approximate budget for 2 people (Euro/USD was 1.07):
- Air flight tickets BOS-NAP $2600 (coach)
- Lodging ~ $4000 (incl breakfast) - 14 nights
- Rental car $1100, gas $200, parking in Praiano e30/day, taxis ~ e200 total
- Food ~ e100/day (dinners and snacks)
- Entertainment ~ e600
Great short but incredibly informative post.
Also I really like your writing style!
Thanks a lot for the useful tips! Hopefully, one day we'll travel in this region of Italy.
OK